The rebrand of Southern and Eastern Asian culture into mainstream fashion

How have we become so focused on personal style but can’t seem to appreciate authenticity?

I thought I’d turn my screen time into something more productive with this blog, and discuss one conversation I’ve seen across social media these past few weeks: how Asian culture has once again been rebranded in the West, this time in clothing. This blog will focus predominantly on examples from Southern to Eastern Asia. 

I was recently looking for a dress for a formal event, and came across loads with a matching scarf or shawl, draped in various ways across the model’s décolletage. After having seen Lady Diana’s 1987 Blue dress at Cannes film festival, I had always loved the style. 

So after further research, my algorithm had identified my interest in it and pushed more options to me, including discussions surrounding it. I hadn’t realised this was a ‘trend of the summer’ so was amidst heated discussions online. 

The trending scarf, or as some had inaccurately labelled it ‘Scandinavian scarf’ comes from the Indian Dupatta: a shawl-like scarf worn as part of an outfit. In Indian culture, they represent modesty, historically worn as a form of coverage for either the head or body, now frequently serving as a form of cultural identity. 

So where did this rebrand come from? 

The shawl was reportedly named Scandinavian after online clothing brand ‘Bipty’ mistakenly referred to it as a European garment. 

Other examples

Sarongs as another example are a gender-neutral garment incredibly common amongst South-East Asian cultures. In the West, they’re typically worn as a beach cover-up, with the internet saying that recently they’ve ‘even been introduced into menswear’ despite this being normalised in its birthplace. They are versatile garments that can be worn in many ways to ensure appropriate formality and comfort. But can also represent heritage, indicating tribal backgrounds based on specific colours and designs. Amongst the broader demographic of ‘South-East Asia’, they can represent unity between a diverse range of cultures within a particular region (in this case ASEAN countries — Association of Southeast Asian Nations). 

And finally kimonos: an iconic part of Japanese culture. An extremely personal garment, kimonos represent the wearer’s age, social class and wealth. With a multitude of patterns that often decorate them, they convey messages and promises for the individual (for example Cherry Blossoms ‘Sakura’ representing beauty, new life and how life passes us by in a fleeting moment, most commonly worn in spring). It inspired the ‘wrap dress’ seen in the West, following Diane Von Furstenberg’s 1974 design, but with a lack of due credit. 

Why did I choose this to discuss?

Now we’ve seen the intricacies of some cultural clothing from both Southern and Eastern Asian countries, we must work on approaching future ‘trends’ with the same critical mindset. First inquiring why they have to be trends in the first place for them to be accepted? These are peoples’ lifestyles, people’s stories, not a cute summer accessory. By all means you can explore the culture and customs, but with respect at the centre of your intentions. If someone were to wear a piece of my culture, I’d be happy for them to, so long as they know its background and significance: something we can all work to improve. 

I’d say another important thing to do after you’ve researched these pieces and want to wear them yourself, is to buy from brands who hold that heritage. Don’t buy from Shien just because it’s cheaper. The culture that you’re buying, may be crafted by the same broken hands. 

I would say it’s important that we share our cultures, with fashion being an ‘easy’ way to do so. As it prevents the seclusion of communities who potentially face the threat of ethnic cleansing as we see today and throughout history. It keeps tradition and culture alive and protected, which is increasingly more important in this often hateful world. 

What garments does your culture have? And have there been any that have surprised you after research?